We were off in good time this morning as we needed to do some shopping in Congleton as well as making sure that we arrived in time for entry into Harecastle Tunnel. Although the tunnel is open until 5pm, arrival before 3pm is needed in order to ensure being included in the last passage.
It was a bright and sunny day most of the time and in the middle of the day rather warm. However, towards the end of the day, the temperature dropped sharply - a reminder that it will not be too long before some heating in the evening is called for!
The rest of this canal is level except for the slight drop at Hall Green stop lock just before the end. As a canal built towards the end of the Canal Age, it has many long straight sections with embankments to fill in the gaps. Unlike the Shroppie, there are few notable cuttings - just as well as they have proved in modern times to be the greater headache for maintenance.
Just before the outskirts of Congleton the canal passes over the former Biddulph Valley Railway. Although now closed the trackbed is popular with walkers, joggers and cyclists.
Earlier on the Macclesfield we started to see stones with holes through them as edging to the towpath. We think we have read that they were made this way to take advantage of worn out think cables from the coal mines around Lord Vernon's Wharf, but just right now we cannot locate the reference!
The towpath changes sides just before and after passing Congleton Wharf and each places has an iconic snake bridge. The wharf itself was redeveloped as housing some time ago and one of the older buildings was retained. The canal passes over the main road with ornate railings to the aqueduct.
We moored so that Mike could walk into town for shopping. Christine enquired from two locals walking by about where the best bread could be found - at lunch time we discovered that the advice was spot on! It was about 15 minutes walk and on the way Mike noticed that there is a half hourly bus service so after completing the round of the local shops and a supermarket, he opted for the easy way back - well, what else is a bus pass for?
Off again and lunch was 'on the go' as by now it was mid day and we still had a fair way to go.
A familiar landmark around here is Mow Cop, a Gothic folly built on a hill top. As it happened, this was the only glimpse we recorded today.
We only saw one large country house along the whole of this canal - this one, near Scholar Green, is Ramsdell Hall. Built around 1760, it pre-dated the canal (and later the railway) by a good century. Their web site claims, "It is more than likely that William Baker designed and oversaw the building of it. Yes the same architect who designed Baker Street in London"
At Hall Green is today's only lock which lowers the canal by around 300mm. This is to control the flow of water and ensure that as little as possible flows into the Trent and Mersey (which it joins shortly) nor that the Macclesfield steals any! Interestingly, Wikipedia says that it "was originally built as two chambers end to end, to allow for either canal to be higher. The second chamber fell into disuse when the weir level on the top pound of the Trent and Mersey Canal was permanently lowered after nationalisation to improve the air draft in Harecastle Tunnel"
We crossed the Trent and Mersey on the famous 'flyover' Poole Aqueduct, before joining it a short while later. Just as quickly we reached the entrance to Harecastle Tunnel. Here the canal water is distinctively coloured, full of iron from the tunnel workings.
The tunnel is narrow and because of the length entry is controlled by tunnel keepers - the one at the southern end also operates the doors which ensure that the fans keep a flow of air through the tunnel to disperse fumes from boat engines. We had about an hour and a half wait as a convoy had not long left and they at had to reach the other end before the next north bound convoy could set off. Only when they were through could we be allowed in. Nevertheless, it was very warm in the sun trap with a pleasant and chatty tunnel keeper. Also, it is surprising how easy it is to have conversations with fellow boaters when forced to tie up alongside each other. The only other boat going through in the same convoy as us was on his way back down to London to resume work, making home adaptations for disabled people.
There were two tunnels in use at one stage but mining subsidence gradually meant that the original one became too long to use - the entrances can still be seen to the west of the one which we use now.
Eventually we were allowed to set off into the tunnel. Our memories - and everyone else's remarks - are all about how narrow and low the tunnel is, not to mention cold and wet. Now, it was only a month ago that we went through Standedge Tunnel, which really is tight, and this time Harecastle seemed quite luxurious! Having been warned that it is better not to take the tunnel too slowly we put on some engine power and were a little surprised that we emerged just 34 minutes later.
From the south portal we continued through the northern part of the Potteries, much of which we have commented on is the blogs of visits in earlier years.
Middleport Pottery, home to Burleigh ceramics, seems to be undergoing extensive renovations.
Not sure if we have told this before, but when we first came this way some 46 years ago, the Shelton Iron and Steel Works was still very much in operation and the canal passed through the main works, close to where hot metal was being worked. It was definitely not an experience to be easily forgotten. However, the works are a thing of the past with this sign about the only reminder.
We continued as far as Etruria Junction with its striking statue of James Brindley. We could not find a space of suitable length to moor at the start of the Caldon Canal (a little prettier) so, after filling up with water, we reversed back onto the main line where there was plenty of room.
13.6 miles - 1 lock
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