Tuesday 11 March 2014

Wine Museum and Kourion

We began the day with a repeat visit to Pissouri Square for morning coffee, although this time we opted for latte rather than Cyprus. It was warm and sunny, not quite as hot as when we arrived but good enough for a long sit and read.


Afterwards we took a little wander around more of the incredibly narrow streets. We could look at the outside of the church but, in common with many, it was not open. Perhaps they do not have a custom of casual vistors, only opening when it is to be used for a service.
Pissouri church
Church detail
The best bread so far - although all have been tasty - came from the small village bakery so we returned there again. We only wanted a couple further items so we tried the village supermarket. No yoghurts. It seems that he specializes in foods imported from the UK and takes an air freight delivery every three weeks. However the pallet of yoghurts really only lasts two weeks so we have a little wait!

As a result we returned back down to the larger supermarket on the edge of the village. From there it was back to the apartment and time for lunch.

A painter was at work doing the front door and the outside of the bathroom window. Let's hope the ghastly smell of paint soon clears.

By the way, we did have a further email from our Hays agent, indicating that matters were now sorted, at least as they see it. Hope that the apartment owner is equally satisfied. At least he has not left us a note today.

Rain had by now appeared, occasionally quite heavy but by 2 o'clock it looked as if the worst was over but that it might be a bit cool for an extended rewarding session.

Wine museum
So, after extensive debate, we headed east stopping first at the Wine Museum in Erimi. An enthusiastic guide introduced us to the wine growing region, which is concentrated where we are, up to the foothills of Troodos. Fairly recent archeological investigations date fragments of wine pots back almost five millennia.


We were shown a 'ten minute' CD entitled The Wine Route, it was without any commentary, more an opportunity for the museum owner to show her musical skills in the backing track. The visuals used every transition in the editing program! Some were quite inappropriate including one that changed from an image of a girl by seemingly opening out from her chest to change to the next, unrelated image.  Someone was good at IT but not so hot on visual design.

Beach at Kourion
We back tracked towards Kourion, firstly taking a look at the beach. Although it was a splendid view with some spectacular rugged cliffs as backdrop, there really was not much to detain us.

We were really in search of the amphitheatre and other archeological remains which we understood to be nearby. In fact it was the next turning off the main road, about 150m further on.

House of Eustolius
Mosaic bath
Dertail of mosaic floor
It was with a quiet wry smile that we readily accepted the ticket man's offer of Senior entrance prices! No hiding . . . The first site was the House of Eustolius, largely under cover to protect the mosaic floor in some of the rooms. It must have been a substantial complex when in use, more a palace than a house.

Kourion amphitheatre

Orchestra
Next came the main feature: the amphitheatre. Although it was heavily restored in modern times, and appears suitable for performance use, it is most impressive and even with just a few vistors around it is possible to gain some sense of what it must have been like in its heyday, ending around 4C AD. Standing at the centre of the 'orchestra' (where the chorus performed) and talking to the seats, the acoustics are incredible. It sounds as if there is a modern amplification system reflecting back at you.

(The wifi gave up at this point for the rest of the evening!)

More of the site
There was still a large part of the site we had not covered but it was time for it to close for the evening so we had to leave, wishing that we had more time. Rather different from some of the places we have visited - and also the cheapest.

In the evening we went back to Kastro's. We had already decided that we wanted to try out local Meze tonight and, after scanning all the available menus, this seemed to be the best. Whilst we have nothing to compare with, it certainly lived up to our expectations and a challenge to complete. Apart from the opening salad and dips there were 7 separate dishes which came in pairs. The final dish was roast lamb, perhaps the tastiest we have ever had. It almost melted in the mouth. The meal was completed with a dish of prepared fresh fruit, Cyprus coffee and the standard shot of zivitzia.

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