Bath

Today's Canals : Kennet and Avon, River Avon

Before leaving, Mike popped to Sainsbury for a newspaper and also to replace the broken cafetiere. For the past couple of days we have had to make two cups in quick succession using our single mug version. Not spotted before, but he did buy one that is an intermediate size (4 cups = 2 mugs).

Bradford Lock

We set off just after the boat which was moored overnight in front of us but they arrived at the nearby Bradford lock with another boat already ready to go down, so we had to wait a turn, with one boat then coming up. Two volunteer lock keepers were on although one seemed unaware of the problems cause by opening top paddles too quickly especially with only a single boat coming up. Going down we shared with a day boat just setting off after having the required instruction.

The day began bright and sunny and stayed that way all day although a pleasant cool breeze was welcome.

We were now entering the area where there has been much debate about moorings. Indeed, there were many more boats than on most canals and over a longer distance. However, it was rare that we would have had to search for more than five or six boat lengths before find a possible mooring spot. Some of the boats that look less able to meet the continuous cruising requirements seem to have concluded that if they moor where the weeds and reeds are at their most extensive then perhaps an enforcement officer will not try to bother sticking a notice on them! We only saw one boat with signs of protest about CRT's action: "eviction" it was called.

However, there are long stretches of marked long term moorings and, in most cases, there were huge gaps with few showing signs that a tenant was away short term.

Also, the frequent visitor moorings were never completely full - albeit that we were passing during the middle of the day and they are all either 24 or 48 hour moorings.

All in all, either the problem has been overstated or the new transition policies have encouraged a number of boaters to move away. Certainly there were more such boats further up around Devizes than we recalled from four years ago.

Avoncliff Aqueduct

 The canal from Bradford hugs the hillside above the River Avon and is frequently accompanied by a railway line. For the most part the canal is on the south side of the valley but for a short distance it changes over to the north, with two aqueducts - Avoncliff and Dundas - carrying boats over both river and railway. Looking at the map it seems possible that the original engineers concluded this was a cheaper option than staying on the south as it would have entailed a much longer elevated section across the wider river plain near Freshford where a smaller river joins the Avon.

We were now following the day boat from Bradford and in front of it a very, very slow Canaltime boat. At times we had to drift in neutral to avoid running into the queue.

One moored boat stated on its front that it was registered at the St Columb Canal - a short long disappeared canal in Cornwall, not far from where we live. No doubt that explains it black and yellow colours.

A feature on the canal from Bradford is the frequent provision of what have been described a duck steps. They look rather like the horse steps on the Grand Union but narrower. Since they are sometimes on the off side they could not help boat horses! On the other hand, we could not see why ducks needed such help - they readily fly on and off the water - this one landed on the top of the boat and took a ride for a short time, walking right from the front to the back!

Dundas Aqueduct

 The second aqueduct is at Dundas, where the Somerset Coal Canal once joined the main navigation. A short section is now used for moorings. We stopped to use the services and then a little longer to complete our lunch. For once a fast tap filled quicker than expected.

Somerset Coal Canal

Dundas Wharf

Sadly, the wharf crane now has to have a notice saying that it is not to be used because it does not meet today's safety standards.

The occasional piece of sculpture sometimes generates a smile - this one is inscribed Ceci n'est plus un canoe!

We gradually approached Bath and the houses that cover the steep hills alongside the deep river valleys. Even the humblest of utility building is made from the yellow stone for which the city is famous.

We now passed under a succession of bridges and a couple of short tunnels. Cleveland House Tunnel is much more obviously named once you have seen it!

A delightful former lock cottage stands guard at the top lock of the Bath flight - though why the lifebelt should have been provided by the Bath Humane Society is not clear.

A city built on hills inevitably means that many have great views but these overlooking the middle of the flight themselves look splendid.

Alongside the third lock is a small cafe, The Pump Shed, and we succumbed to the temptation of an ice cream each, rather tasty.

We were accompanied down the last three locks by a German-English family we had seen earlier but who had decided not to come down the locks as they had to turn around and take their hire boat back to Hilperton by Friday.

Bath Deep Lock

The next to last lock combines two of the original locks and so is the second deepest on the system (just a few centimetres less than Tuel Lane on the Rochdale which also combined two locks during restoration). Sadly it is not easy to show the lock with a real sense of how deep it is.

Below the last lock we emerged onto the River Avon itself, with a pontoon landing stage. Our speed now leapt almost off the scale but we decided not to go too far tonight as we are still unsure of moorings.

As a result we took almost the first available, a long visitor mooring opposite former mill and warehouse buildings.

10.2 miles - 7 locks