We had been promised rain almost all day so it was a surprise to find that the first part of the morning was dry, albeit rather overcast. We only went a short distance before mooring again. Mike wanted to attempt to visit a large Sainsbury supermarket (if only for a newspaper) marked on the maps as about ten minutes walk away from the canal. Unfortunately there is a motorway and dual carriageway in the way so he and Alice set off not entirely sure whether and how they might get there.
A local walker pointed out the way and, in fact, there was a good footpath cycle way all the way over several roundabouts and roads. We then thought that we might have to walk around to the car park entrance but, a little to our surprise, we found a special pedestrian entrance off the footpath!
We actually bought a bit more than just a newspaper - including a new kettle to replace the one which Mike broke a couple of days ago. Most of the rest of the things we picked up were in the 'treat' category than 'necessity'!
After returning to the boat we set off once more but almost immediately the rain eventually arrived and within a couple of minutes it was rather heavy and by the time we arrived at Ellesmere Port Boat Museum - the end of the canal - Mike was rather soaked. Alice kept him company for some of the time but in the end she admitted defeat and retreated inside.
There are several sculpted way markers along the section into Ellesmere Port.
The first things was to find out what is where - Christine went to chat up the museum staff (who all proved most chatty) as even the marked water point was not evident. First, then, we filled with water (for future reference the tap is actually inside the museum fence and the staff have to unlock the gate to give access). The elsan disposal is right across the other side of the top basin so we opted to leave than until we depart.
After having confused the trip boat man - first we were not going down the last two locks and then, having discovered that mooring in the middle basin is included in the museum entrance charge, we were going down. Fortunately he was quite cheerful as he moved his boat back, after having moved it forward ready for his 1 o'clock trip. He also went to great lengths to make sure that we knew where we could moor.
After filling with water we made our way down the two locks, very close together. They are slightly unusual as they have a pair of gates both top and bottom. Whilst they are easy to move, the paddles were remarkably stiff. As might be expected, we had plenty of help.
Down through the second lock we made an almost complete circuit of the basin to reach the designated mooring. Surprised also to see next but one was nb Wrens Nest which used to moor to Lower Heyford during some of the time we were there. However the boat was locked so we assumed that they had gone off elsewhere.
Mike was a bit put out as he discovered that his watch was no longer on his wrist. Where could it be? He recalled looking at it just before he and Alice returned from shopping. It sometimes comes off when removing a rucksack or a waterproof with tight wrist bands. But it was not inside when he removed it. Mystery?
After lunch we walked up to the entrance and paid our dues. By now the rain had cleared and the afternoon was wonderfully warm - even hot towards the end. In exchange we had a useful map of the site and we set off to explore. Many of the buildings have been restored from when this was a very busy working port. Ships would come from many places around the coastline - including the china clay ports in Cornwall - to brings goods for distribution the the surrounding area.
Ellesmere Port gains its name from the original canal plan which was to link Ellesmere, inland towards Llangollen, with the Mersey. Whilst some parts of the plan were accomplished, the connection to the Mersey has only ever been via Chester and Hurleston, just before Nantwich.
The port started to develop when the main means of moving canal boats was with a horse (or in many cases a mule). What did surprise us was to learn that before the canals and boats were used on river navigations, they were hauled by teams of men rather than animals. So we started our exploration at the Old Stables, with smithy next door that would have made all the tools and chains that the canal company needed to run the port.
The Power House, once an early gas making plant that enabled night working in the docks, is now a display of various engines, either from canal boats or other small craft. The was a splendid example of the very popular early canal engine, the Bolinder. Some of these are still preserved and in operation with a distinctive sound. Starting them however is quite a performance that involves using a blow torch to heat the first shot of fuel in a special bulb!
We were able to go inside the cabin on a former working boat, from the time when families lived on board. This only happened later on when economics were becoming much harsher and boatmen could not earn a sufficient living by working on a daily basis and returning to their home at night.
The main exhibition was extremely informative and showed many aspects of boat building and boat life. Another new fact to us was that the inscription on boats "Registered at xxxx nnnn" specifically referred to a regulation regarding sanitary living conditions and meant that it was on the list of that authority who were expected to visit the boat and check that it was not 'over crowded' on a regular basis. One of the displays also suggested that many a boatman would hide most of his children when the inspector arrived!
Joe and Rose Skinner's (said to be the last Number One's) former narrowboat friendship is preserved here. Even when they retired they continued to live on board and used the small house they had just for storage"
The last section we looked at is called Porters Row comprising a terrace of four houses. Originally built in 1830's there were quite a few more but as they fell into disuse most were demolished. The last time any were used for living was back in 1980's. The remaining four have been restored and furnished as they might have been in four different periods. Initially they had neither running water nor a flushing toilet. Gradually modern developments came into use but these early models sometimes seemed quite quaint and were a strange reminder to us of how things were like back in our childhood. We even remember people having three flying ducks on their walls!
We cast off from the mooring in the lower basin a little after three o'clock and ascended the two locks once more. At the top we had a difficult manoeuvre across the basin to access the elsan disposal point. At least there was no wind to provide an added complication, unlike yesterday.
Finally we were off back the way we came at four, leaving us just under and hour and a half to the visitor moorings at the bridge nearest to Chester Zoo - tomorrow's destination.
Mike pondered on what might have happened to his watch and it was then that he recalled meeting with Jess as they returned from shopping, on a path down from the bridge to the towpath. He passed the rucksack to Jess as it had a present in it for her. On the most outside of chances, when we came to that bridge we pulled in and whilst Alice held the boat on a rope, Mike went up the path. At first he could see nothing and was on the point of turning around but just at that moment he spotted, there on the path, untouched from when it had been dropped, was the watch!
It was now a really warm afternoon and blue skies were all around. Later, as darkness fell, a thunderstorm arrived and there was plenty of lightning for the girls to watch and wonder how it occurs.
7.3 Miles - 4 Locks
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