Just the Thames

Christine was still suffering from her ticklish cough overnight so we treated ourselves to a lie-ie -even if we did make morning tea at 7 o'clock! As a result, it was not until late morning that we eventually set off.

We completed the rest of the Oxford Canal down to Duke's Cut where we turned onto the River Thames and thence upstream. The scenery and navigation is quite different here - not least because of the locks. Unlike those downstream from Oxford which are hydraulically operated, those upstream are manual paddles and beams. The keepers have a long pole which enables them to open and close both gates from one side of the lock.

The mechanism which seemed unusual to us when we first went onto the River Kennet has now become familiar. They are much easier to operate than the traditional canal mechanisms.

At Eynsham Lock we not only purchased our temporary licence but also the usual round of water, rubbish and elsan. We moored above the lock for lunch. In the end, we stayed here until well after three o'clock as Mike decided to tackle the varnish on the fort doors which was beginning to look the worse for wear. Although he was able to complete the sanding down as well as the varnishing of the inside, the outrside will have to wait until we can find some outdoor grade varnish! At least the new shelf was also given its first coat at the same time.

At Northmoor Lock we were joined by a couple of swans who insisted on swimming into the lock after us!

This lock is the best remaining fully working example of the old 'paddle and rhymer' weirs which were the first method of controlling the water levels. Originally introduced to provide a supply of power to local millers, King John passed the first laws to protect the right of navigation - if only to incerase trade which he taxed to finance his wars! This history came from the lock keeper who took some considerable time to explain the way in which he works the weir as well as its origins. He awaits a meeting tomorrow with English Heritage to resolve and on-going debate within the Environment Agency who have suggested that it be replaced with a powered mechanism like most other weirs on the river.

After passing under a footbridge - which shows just how much the river has narrowed now - we found the mooring recommended by the lock keeper.