Berkhamsted

Today's Canal - Grand Union, Wendover Arm and Main Line

It was a bright, sunny and cloudless day as we awoke - and it remained that way for all of the time as we cruised down to Berkhamsted. (Sometimes your shadow will just not go away!)

Although we could have gone on a lot longer, our target was set for logistical reasons. Firstly, Mike has to return home for Wednesday for a diocesan meeting which he chairs but secondly because Alice and Jess are coming to join us for a few few days from tomorrow. After dropping them off with us, Joanna will kindly take Mike to Slough where he can more easily catch a train back to Bodmin Parkway.

Another view of the flour mill

The first part of today was too re-trace the Wendover Arm back to the junction with the Main Line. Although it is only a mile and a half it takes a while as progress is slow. The canal looks good above the waterline but is obviously very shallow throughout. This is linked with the summit pound level which we also found somewhat down.

Yesterday, Christine - who was steering at the time - commented that she thought that this water inflow started as she passed by. Mike had the same experience today - it started just before we passed it, and the ripples on an otherwise still water confirmed that it had not been flowing for more than a few moments.

Back at the junction we re-joined the main line above Marsworth Top Lock. There were a few mooring spaces free but this is a popular stopover for those not looking to move to far.

After a short distance we passed the maintenance yard where materials were being unloaded from a truck and a boat being readied to carry others to whichever work site along the canal needs them.

We have been puzzled before by this well-constructed wharf between Tring Station bridge and Cowroast. The answer comes from http://gerald-massey.org.uk/Canal/ which says, "Now the premises of Solgar, an American Vitamin and Herb distributor, the complex was one of a number of ‘buffer depots’ built for the Ministry of Food at strategic points throughout the country — usually beside a railway or canal — to store emergency stocks of food for distribution during WWII, a role that continued into the 1950s. Canal boats worked to the depot carrying such commodities as imported flour and maize."

Overnight the temporary fix to the rear door failed in the wind so Christine rang through to Cowroast to see if they were able to weld it. The response was encouraging so we pressed on, along the summit pound although the speed was not always very good since the multitude of leaves quickly blocked the prop.

It was not rather breezy which made turning into Cowroast Marina and turning to come alongside the workshop less than straightforward. However, the wind can often be turned to advantage if the manoeuvre is planned in advance . . .

We took on a little diesel but as it is quite expensive here we only topped up enough for the rest of this trip. Sadly, the very helpful mechanic whom we have used before was, in the event, unable to do the weld, for various complex reasons! We will just have to accept the wind whistling down the back well deck for a bit longer! Strangely, it is much harder to come out of this marina than to come in.

By now there was a queue of four boats, two in the top lock and two waiting. (They were all from the Taverner's Boat Club out on their 'Autumn Cruise')

So we pulled in to the water point (which is actually next to the lock and closer than the lock landing!) to use the time fruitfully! The bridge at the tail of the lock is being repaired this week and the road inevitably closed. Christine chatted to one of the CaRT crew when we eventually came into the lock. Amusingly he reported that the heritage department had been pressing for them to keep the vine that grows over the bridge parapet. He was unsure about how they expected the team to repair and paint bit whilst keeping the vine (which itself may well be harming the structure!)

For most of the following six locks we were behind the club cruise although at one the last shared with us (something to do with what their leader had instructed!) but they re-paired again at the next lock. We passed a couple of single handers coming up in the other direction. Those who stay longer term at Berkhamsted have to go up to Cowroast for their nearest service station.

The sunny day meant that sitting waiting for a lock to fill was always a pleasant time and we were in no great hurry! (Except that we wanted to reach Berkhamsted as early as possible to secure an vacant spot, as we know that it can sometimes fill up but the early afternoon)

As we arrived the bank looked full and we pulled in to the closest to the access from the nearby car park and supermarket. Christine checked further along but this seemed the best. We were a bit surprised to notice that boats were using the opposite bank as, in the past, we had recalled this being signed as No Mooring.

We had had lunch 'on the go' so, after a short break we went for a walk along the high street, collecting a paper from Waitrose on the way. Christine was also checking out the eating places for somewhere to entertain the two girls during Mike's absence.

The Dower House

Although the main street has plenty of interesting older buildings, the side roads are mainly terraced. However, looking in the estate agent windows we quickly discovered that there is nothing modest about house prices in this area!

The large parish church, St Peter's, is on the high street. Just outside is an interesting tree and a couple of unusual graves.

We spent some time looking around the church where an organist was practising.

The church is especially linked with the poet and hymn writer William Cowper who was born here in 1731. We did not do very well with photos inside the church. A Millennium window commemorates the Cowper link. It is formed from etched clear glass to contrast with the Victorian style of dark stained glass which intentionally isolates the churchgoer inside the building from the world outside. Through this window the outside can clearly be seen and also the design can be read from the outside as well as inside.

We picked up a leaflet which listed a programme of free organ recitals and it so happened that one was tonight at 8 pm. We returned to the boat and had our meal in good time so that we could return for this event.

There were about 40 people in the audience. The very accomplished organist, Richard Carr, was excellent and his programme, which last about 40 minutes, was very varied including a delightful arrangement of Walton's popular Song from his Facade Suite. We were very pleased that we had found out about this recital.

9.2 miles - 7 locks