Saturday, 29 June 2013

Leaving Liverpool

Today we are booked to go back up the Liverpool Canal Link and have to be ready at Mann Island Lock by 9 am. There was enough time for Mike to pop to a Tesco (nearer than the one he had found previously) for a paper and milk (and garlic and strawberries!).


The first boat came through from Salthouse Dock at 8.30 but we were determined not to be too early as there are no landing stages outside the lock entrance and it was still rather windy. We had visions of being blown around in circles in a wide, open, dock!


As we made ready to cast off, another five boats followed through so we were at the end of the queue. The last one caught us by surprise as we thought that only six boats a day were booked through. As a result we ran solo through the link but this gave us time to chat to the CaRT staff who were operating the locks.


At least the day was dry and quite warm although generally overcast. Alongside Canning Half Tide Lock are some reminders of the equipment once used for operating the docks.


The graving docks were used for ship repair, especially for cleaning the hulls of wooden sailing ships whose speed would be dramatically reduced if the barnacles were allowed to develop too extensively.



Mann Island Lock is fitted with two sets of gates at the lower end - the outer ones would be used if the level of Albert Dock rises above that of the next section. As we were the last, the lock keepers shut both after us.




We again had excellent views of the surrounding buildings, many of which have only been constructed in the past five years, including the new ferry terminal building.


At this stage we were keeping up with the queue ahead of us as we waited for Princes Lock - this time operated for us by the keepers.


This time we followed the correct route through Princes Dock alongside the buoys - when we came down we (and the boats ahead of us) thought that they marked a channel, but the keeper gave us clear instructions today!


Looking back we gradually bade farewell to the Liver Building and continued through the various docks which so nearly all became landfill opportunities for the city council. We understand that the narrow channel section is the result of the start that was made with that scheme.



The size of the mooring bollards on the side of the dock wall is a reminder of the type of shipping that once made use of these facilities.


We learnt from the lock keepers that the two large buildings alongside Stanley Dock are not to be demolished - we felt that they looked a rather sorry sight when we came down. The warehouse that is in the same style as those around Albert Dock is currently being worked on - to be converted into apartments and the huge tobacco warehouse may possibly become a retail centre although this conversion is not easy task as the original only had six feet between floor and ceiling at each level.


The lowest lock in the Stanley Dock flight is currently only about half the rise of the other three (which are comparatively deep). As one of the keepers pointed out, the markings on the stones alongside the bottom gates confirms that there is up to 17 feet of water over the bottom cill. We presume that the dock level is now higher that it was when the locks were built.


All the chatting - and at the next to top lock Christine and one of the keepers kept the rest of us waiting for ages - meant that the other boats in the convoy were now well out of sight.


Bidding the lock keepers farewell for now we continued through Bootle and Litherland. These concrete chairs were a strong reminder of the Walker Art Gallery - see yesterday's blog.


We assumed that this piece of outdoor art depicts the range of tools that were once used in either the construction of the canal or perhaps used in the docks.


If you are going to build up from your pitched roof, be sure and make it a big one! (Alas, as we turned the corner the same decoration on the other sides rather gives the game away!)


We stopped at the Litherland services both to empty the elsan but also to fill our water tank which we had not got around to organising whilst we were in Albert Dock. This gave us a chance to take a close look underneath the East Lancs road bridge. Forty years ago the lift bridge at this crossing was demolished and replaced by the new road. The only indication now are the footings of the mechanism between the old footbridge and the newer concrete bridge. We missed the significance of these on the way down but had discovered them through the internet when we were back home.


Perhaps a little thankfully, we noticed that a number of the former swing bridges have now been removed - this one is now, on the right, someone's back garden!


Some sections, especially those bordering the country park, remain quite attractive - actually significantly improved from the dark days of forty or fifty years ago when much of the surrounding land was urban dereliction.

It is worth recalling that much of the regeneration - most notably that of Albert Dock - came into reality in the wake of the Toxteth Riots at the end of the Seventies. As the Tate and Lyle golden syrup tins used to remind us, sometimes good can come out of the saddest situations. Perhaps today it is also worth remembering that just occasionally politicians can make a difference!


We arrived at Bridge 6 with no CaRT staff in sight! However, after a short wait the arrived and proceeded to open up for us. We guess that we must have really fallen behind the convoy by now!


Not much later we also met them at bridge 9 where we were set loose on our own. At the following swing bridge a family enjoying the warm-ish weather helped operate the bridge. They were surprised at how easily the little girls were able to move the bridge as their father remembered when this was an old wooden bridge that could take four or fiove people to shift!


We had intended to moor in Maghull where we stopped on the way down but, in the end, decided to pull in just after the swing bridge.

12.8 miles - 6 locks

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