Friday 28 June 2013

Liverpool as Tourists

A day to explore Liverpool city centre. sadly it started wet and stayed that way for most of the day. The only variation was between light drizzle and heavy rain! Nevertheless we did our best to ignore it and carried on walking anyway.


We stayed moored in Albert Dock - no-one suggested that we had to move into Salthouse Dock (the Wigan office of CaRT told us last week that there would be no need) and it was rather windy so that moving would have been quite tricky anyway. The only advantage might have been that we could have used the TV dish which here in Albert Dock would have to point straight through the former warehouse buildings that surround us.


Mike went off early to find a newspaper - the nearest was at Tesco about 12 minutes walk away.


After coffee we set off. Alongside the oddly-shaped oneparkwest apartment building we spotted a pleasing low-maintenance landscaping feature.



After passing the Liverpool One bus station we climbed a set of steps into one of the more recent shopping developments.


We walked up through the new and old shopping streets and emerged at St John's gardens - the only public green space in the city centre. The statues here particularly remember several thousand French prisoners of war that were imprisoned in Liverpool during the Napoleonic Wars.


Opposite these gardens we came to the Walker Art Gallery, which like all the museums in Liverpool, are free to enter. We found this gallery quite attractive and interesting. It houses a very varied collection from Renaissance to contemporary art.


A few of the works are well-known, such as the popular What happened to your father? depiction of the terror court of a previous generation.



Christine was taken by a painting by Herkomer of life in the Westminster Union Workhouse - the caption highlighted that the artist was unusual in showing the women's faces very sympathetically and with detailed individuality.


We had a short break, trying out a collection of post-war chairs including the Panton chair, the first to be made by injection-moulding in a single piece. It is surprisngly comfortable - unlike some of the others!

One of the special exhibitions was of work by the photographer Rankin which showed portraits of a number of people who had been diagnosed with terminal illness. Whilst this background detail was often harsh, the emerging feeling is one of hope and determination to make the most of whatever time or space is allowed to each individual. (Photography is not allowin in this gallery)


A sculpture by Henry Moore captures a soldier in the moment of falling.


Above the entrance Christine spotted a number of brightly coloured pigeons. At least these do not make a mess - but a cooing sound could be heard.


After leaving the art gallery we passed in front of Lime Street station.


By now it was time for lunch. We had planned to find somewhere for this evening but, in an experiment to find the best regime to combat acid reflux, we chose to have a fuller meal now. we had see reference to an asian style buffet close to the station. Whilst it was inexpensive, including an OAP (sic) discount, it did offer an amazing range of choices of different items. On the other hand, dessert was largely jelly and ice cream!


Next on our agenda was the Anglican cathedral. On the way we passed through Chinatown. Along with the Irish, Chinese formed a large community around the docks for some considerable time.


As we neared the huge building that, along with the Catholic Cathedral at the other end of Hope Street, dominates the city centre it was raining hard so a good photo was impossible!


Inside we found it a most welcoming place with several guides on hand to answer any questions. Below the large west stained glass window is an installation by Tracey Emin that reads I Felt You And I Knew That You Loved Me. Although it is in stark contrast with the main style of the building, it uncomplicated message is forceful.


An icon commissioned in 2008 pays homage to the fifteenth century version by the Russian artist Rublev. (Had to include this specially for Dom who used it recently a the basis for an excellent sermon)


As always with a cathedral visit we take far too many photos to include so only a small selection is possible. The Lady Chapel was the first part of the building to be completed, in 1910, and its style is quite a contrast.


A memorial to Bishop David Shepherd is carved into a wall and is full of significance as the accompanying stand explains.


A very recent poem by Carol Ann Duffy was written in response to the reaction to the inquiry into the Hillsborough disaster. It has been strikingly illustrated.




After a cup of tea in the attractive mezzanine cafe we were about to leave when Christine asked one of the staff about why the arch across the centre of the nave is called the Dulverton Bridge. Although it has a rather mundane reason to do with the original benefactor, it did result in an offer to show us up on to the top of it (it is normally closed to public access) We had a good conversation with the lady who accompanied us.


Following this visit we walked the length of Hope Street - in heavy rain - to visit the other cathedral, passing this quirky sculpture on the way. We could not find any information about it.


The entrance to the Roman Catholic Metropolitan Cathedral is at the top of an imposing set of steps (why is it that architects have such a passion for steps?) This building is uncompromisingly contemporary in style both inside and outside. It was built, like the other cathedral, over many decades with the Second World War interrupting work. In this case it was perhaps for the better as it meant that the design by Edwin Lutyens (for what promised to be the largest cathedral in Europe) had to be abandoned with only the crypt completed.


The main worship area is surrounded by eight chapels or other spaces - this one is dedicated to all those who die in childhood. The tapestry took six years to weave.


After this visit we made our way back to the Waterfront but as we passed through the main shopping area we did make one or two purchases - Mike wanted to find some new shoes and Christine had a number of M&S vouchers we expire tomorrow (but she did spend them on a shirt for Mike!)

We returned to the boat a little after six o'clock and 'battened down the hatches' in the hope that we could forget about the wind and rain outside!


Late evening, with the sunset promising a better day for tomorrow, Christine took a awalk around the dock to the river bank.




1 comment:

Dom Whitting said...

Thank you for the picture - Liverpool is on my list of Cathedrals to visit!